In the courtyard, my guide was offered the key to the crypt, normally off limits to tourists. The benefit to having a guide well-loved by locals is that you get access to things other tourists don't. He was greeted everywhere we went with kindness and warm affection. This was actually fascinating, because my guide was a white Australian ex-pat. He had lived in Cairo for years, learned Arabic, and became a true "habib" to many locals.